It's all too easy to summarily dismiss the entire Chardonnay category as "bland" or "oaky" or "lacking specific varietal character" – and yes, there are plenty of examples to support such claims. But in the past decade, as I've done deep dives into Chardonnays from Washington and Oregon, I've become a big fan. Fewer and fewer try to emulate the super ripe, super oaky California styles of decades ago. Even in California such wines are on the wane, and some longtime iconic brands are making great wines for today's palates.

With better clones, older vines and sophisticated winemaking practices, the best Chardonnays from across the entire spectrum of West Coast winegrowing regions reward the taster with depth, precision, texture and often elegance. They still come in a vast range of styles, but if I were to paint them with the broadest possible brush I'd say the great ones are most often from well-established vineyards, picked at lower brix than in the past, fermented with wild yeasts and given some time in a percentage of new oak. Sometimes a winemaker will mix fermentation vessels, blending their Chardonnay from some combination of steel tanks, concrete eggs, clay amphorae,  and neutral or new barrels.

I do not pretend that my survey of new releases represents more than just a tiny slice of what is available. But I've tasted enough Northwest bottles, along with a handful from California, to point you toward a few that are exceptional. Listed below you will find excellent wines that are each in their own way quite expressive of the site and winemaking techniques employed. So forget about the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) tag that the grape has been stuck with, and look for Authentically Brilliant Chardonnay.

Everything here is recommended. That doesn't mean that they are all equally good. They are listed alphabetically, but in order to differentiate further (without falling back on scores) I've added these tags:  VW for value wine; CW for cellar wine and T-10 for a wine in my top ten out of everything tasted.

Aubaine

Aubaine 2019 Anahata Vineyard Chardonnay

Aubaine is a new project from Andy Lytle (Lytle-Barnett) and winemaker Isabelle Meunier (Lavinea). The focus is on estate-grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Planted in 2015, this young vineyard’s debut is a strong one. It’s impeccably balanced with pinpoint citrus and tree fruits, crisp and tangy acidity, a touch (20%) of new oak and a long finish which livens up the taste buds. A first release from such young vines couldn’t be any better. (T-10)

388 cases; 13%: $45 (Eola-Amity Hills)

Bergström

Bergström 2020 Old Stones Chardonnay

A perennial favorite this brings full-on Bergström character and quality from a winery with a half dozen Chardonnay offerings but only one at this moderate price. It's perfectly balanced among citrus and stone fruits, sappy acids and light barrel flavors of caramel and toasted hazelnuts. A hint of oyster shells adorns the lingering finish.

1103 cases; 13%; $40 (Willamette Valley)

Bergström 2020 Silice Chardonnay

The sandy Silice vineyard, the winery speculates, is most probably a 60-million-year-old sand dune or beach. At 20 years old these vines are approaching maturity and yielding penetrating fruit flavors of pineapple, lemon/lime and green apple. The fruit is accented with touches of fresh tarragon and dried lemon peel. It's textural and detailed, with appealing aromas.

89 cases; 13.1%; $80 (Chehalem Mountains)

Bergström 2020 Bergström Vineyard Chardonnay

The richest of the winery's half dozen Chardonnays, this fills the palate with apple and pear fruit, sheathed in skin tannins. It softens up through the finish, with a creamy character suggesting banana cream pie. Though tightly packed with flavor this clearly needs more bottle age, or at a minimum a forceful decanting to give it a chance to unwrap. It's a 10 year Chardonnay for sure, maybe more. Drink 2023 to 2033. (CW)

66 cases; 13%; $80 (Dundee Hills)

Bergström 2020 Sigrid Chardonnay

Sigrid is the winery's barrel select reserve bottling, compiled from a mix of various estate vineyards. In 2020 the whole lineup is so good that I can't say this stands out. It's really good, but consistent with the style and flavor of the Silice, Bergström Vineyard and even the less expensive Old Stones. Note:  due to be released in May 2023.

340 cases; 13.1%; $110 (Willamette Valley)

Bergström 2020 Le Pré du Col Vineyard Chardonnay

My favorite from Bergström's stellar lineup of 2020 Chardonnays. The flavors penetrate down through layers of apple and peach, fruit skin, and juicy, spicy acids. The phenolic skin flavors give the finish weight and depth, suggesting that this forceful wine will develop further herbal details as it ages. (T-10)

86 cases; 13%; $80 (Ribbon Ridge)

DeLille

DeLille 2020 Roofline Chardonnay

DeLille's recent forays into Oregon bring up this rich, ripe, luscious Chardonnay. The thick fruit flavors of peach and papaya are highlighted with hints of caraway seed. The source of these grapes is not identified, just Willamette Valley. On the bottle it reads simple Oregon due to certain federal labeling rules. As someone who has tasted thousands of Chardonnays from both states, I find this particularly interesting because it takes Oregon grapes and makes the wine in a fruit forward Washington style. In no way is that a criticism, just an interesting observation.

2800 cases; 13.2%; $30 (Willamette Valley)

Dobbes

Dobbes Family Estate 2019 Chardonnay

This is a clean, mineral-driven wine, which was slightly softened by fermentation in neutral oak. It has well-defined flavors of citrus flesh and rind, wet stone and white peach. Further bottle age or extra aeration should help to soften it up and add flesh.

250 cases; 13.5%; $30 (Willamette Valley)

Domaine Roy & Fils

Domaine Roy & Fils 2020 Incline Dundee Hills Estate Chardonnay

There is much to admire in this wine, one of the very fine Chardonnays that came out of the fraught 2020 vintage in the Willamette Valley. Picking early was the key, and despite the low abv the wine is packed with flavor. Citrus blossom and skin, Key lime, crisp apple and lingering flavors of green melon are beautifully framed with sappy acids. Definitely in the French style, but with lovely Oregon fruit front and center. (T-10)

320 cases; 12.5%; $64 (Dundee Hills)

Domaine Roy & Fils 2020 Iron Filbert Vineyard Chardonnay

This elegant wine is one of two single vineyard expressions from the winery in 2020. It's sleek and seductive, layered with skin flavors of citrus and apple. It builds nicely through a long finish, suggesting that it's a wine to age as those layers evolve and open. Tasted at this young age it would be easy to skip through quickly and miss the subtle concentration. Decant decant decant! And then spend some time with it, and it will speak to you. (CW)

140 cases; 12.5%; $126 (Dundee Hills)

Gärd Vintners

Gärd 2019 Chardonnay

The Lawrence Vineyard estates are comprised of eight separate sites in the excellent Royal Slope AVA in north central Washington. The family also farms and gets grapes from Conner-Lee, which supplied 43% of the blend here. This is a powerful wine, packed with orchard fruits and showing some light spice from barrel aging. It's got enough acidity to give the mouthfeel a pleasing juiciness, and carries through the finish with a lick of barrel toast. (VW)

265 cases; 14.1%; $25 (Columbia Valley/Royal Slope) 

Gärd 2019 Grand Klasse Estate Chardonnay

This reserve level, estate-grown wine is an interesting companion to the winery's other 2019 Chardonnay. Here the orchard fruit core flavors are in the background and the new oak barrel flavors more prominent, with a mix of toasted cashews, butter brickle and cinnamon spice. There's just a touch of burn in the finish.

155 cases; 14.4%; $35 (Royal Slope)

Hard Row to Hoe

Hard Row to Hoe 2021 Reserve Chardonnay

Estate grapes picked three weeks apart were fermented separately, blended and aged in a sandstone jarre (that's a new one on me!) for eight months. This seems to have upped the minerality while softening the acids just a touch, yielding a fresh, detailed wine with loads of lemon zest and crisp green apple flavors. The texture and overall length suggest this may be aged another half decade with further improvement.

107 cases; 12.5%; $30 (Lake Chelan)

Hyland Estates

Hyland 2020 Single Vineyard Chardonnay

Not just any old single vineyard designate, this showcases grapes planted in 1979 on their own roots. The wine is lush and broad, with lime and apple fruit accented with clove and hints of chalky stone. The depth and precision are spectacular, and once again this smoke-impacted vintage has produced an exceptional Chardonnay. Delicious already, this should drink quite nicely through the rest of this decade. (T-10)

250 cases; 13.1%; $45 (McMinnville) 

Ken Wright

Ken Wright 2021 Chardonnay

Sourced from equal proportions of Savoya and Haakon Lenai vineyard grapes, this striking wine has amazing freshness and an appealing wet stone minerality. The aromas and flavors bring lemon zest, gin-like botanicals, grapefruit and a touch of pineapple. It's got lovely balance and detail, with just a hint of butterscotch trailing the finish. (T-10)

135 cases; 13%; $38 (Willamette Valley)

L. Donovan

L. Donovan 2020 Cook's Cove Vineyard Chardonnay

Linda Donovan takes a minimalist approach to her winemaking, using native yeasts, extended lees contact, no fining or cold stabilization and minimal SO2 additions. Making wine this way is a bit of a high wire act, and executed beautifully here. It's rich and creamy, with a buttery/toasty character that is irresistible. The fruit is a ripe mix of apple, peach and light tropical, and the flavors extend deliciously across and down the palate. As the wine opens up with air it brings in sensational floral and citrus scents and accents. A completely captivating and gorgeous wine! (VW) (T-10)

67 cases; 13.5%; $22 (Applegate Valley)

https://shop.theurbancork.com/prod-468107/L-Donovan-2020-Chardonnay.html

Nicolas-Jay

Nicolas-Jay 2020 Affinités Chardonnay

Four vineyards contribute to this excellent wine, including Bishop Creek, Maresh and Elton. The wine is textured and sappy, balanced and fresh, with nicely knitted citrus and stone fruits. The acids are natural and lively, the finish almost electric. Recently bottled, this is already showing well but may benefit from more bottle age or decanting. (T-10)

440 cases; 13%; $50 (Willamette Valley)

Reininger/Helix

CPR 2020 Reserve Chardonnay

CPR is a Reininger label for limited release club/tasting room wines that are only made in select vintages. This was sourced from the Stillwater Creek vineyard, barrel fermented in neutral wood and aged sur lie in a new 500 liter puncheon. It's an elegant wine bringing finessed flavors of apple, jicama, lemon verbena and a pat of butter to finish.

12.9%; (Royal Slope) 

Helix 2021 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay

This all-stainless Chardonnay is sleek, spicy and laden with citrus peel flavors of lemon and grapefruit. It's a stylish wine perfect for chilling and enjoying outdoors in the hot weather.

113 cases; 13.3%; $24 (Royal Slope)

Rex Hill

Rex Hill 2019 Seven Soils Chardonnay

Blended from six different vineyards, including 40% from the Jacob Hart estate site, this is lightly buttery, broadly flavorful, and buoyed with medium acids. It's a solid, easy-drinking wine that hits right down the stylistic center of Willamette Valley Chardonnay.

1137 cases; 13.5%; $35 (Willamette Valley)

Sequoia Grove

Sequoia Grove 2020 Chardonnay

This is classic Napa Valley Chardonnay, smooth and accessible, with palate-coating flavors of butter, caramel, coconut, macadamia nuts and vanilla. Those flavors are not over the top, more like a gentle foundation for the medium-bodied apple and white peach fruit. Lovely balance throughout keeps everything in proportion and nicely framed with supporting acids.

14.1%; $32 (Napa Valley)

Sleight of Hand

Sleight of Hand 2020 The Enchantress Old Vine Chardonnay

Sourced from 40-year-old vines at the French Creek vineyard, this harks back to the early days of Wente clone Washington Chardonnay. It's broad and open, instantly accessible with fresh flavors of pear skin and apple sauce. There's a touch of cinnamon and decent grip from some apparent skin contact. Not a big wine, but persistent and spicy with a gentle touch as far as the use of new oak.

375 cases; 13.9%; $35 (Yakima Valley)

Sokol-Blosser

Sokol Blosser 2020 Estate Chardonnay

Smooth and toasty, this tasty effort offers mixed apple fruit flavors with light highlights of white radish. It's pleasantly buttery without descending into microwave popcorn flavors, and it finishes with hints of chervil and arugula. The mixed fermentation vessels – new and neutral barrels, puncheons and a concrete egg named Huevo – contribute to a nicely-textured finish.

724 cases; 12.5%; $42 (Dundee Hills)

Soléna Estate

Soléna 2021 Chardonnay

This light but expressive wine offers pure apple, white peach and lemon/lime flavors, nicely framed with buttery oak. As it warms in the palate tropical fruits emerge – papaya and guava and pineapple. This is the sort of subtle, elegant wine that starts out shy but will reward your full attention with captivating, expansive and expressive flavors. (VW)

800 cases; 13%; $30 (Willamette Valley)

Soléna 2019 Lisa Colleen Chardonnay

Estate-grown grapes comprise this reserve-level selection. It's been aged in two thirds new barrels for 10 months, and tasted now with some extra bottle age the lightly burnt toast flavors have begun to soften up. There's a bold core of peach and apricot and a hint of honeycomb. This well-crafted wine has real power and can be paired with rich seafoods such as lobster or black cod.

75 cases; 13.8%; $85 (Yamhill-Carlton) 

Soléna 2020 Domaine Danielle Laurent Chardonnay

This is a stick-to-your-palate wine, with top notes of butterscotch, lemon curd and cut pineapple. The fruit gathers mid-palate focus and holds firm into a lip-smacking finish. Nectarine, Meyer lemon, pineapple and more are in the mix, with the juicy acidity to pair effortlessly with a variety of lemony entrées. (T-10)

150 cases; 13.7%; $58 (Yamhill-Carlton)

Sonoma-Cutrer

Sonoma-Cutrer 2020 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

It's been awhile since I had the pleasure of tasting wines from this pioneering Chardonnay producer. I'm happy to say they haven't lost a step. The fruit core is ripe and nicely textured, a palate-pleasing mix of orchard fruits and light tropical (banana!). There are further suggestions of cream pie, lemon meringue and pear tart. It's a lovely wine, bursting with freshness and flavor, and a very  fine value. Still drinking nicely on day three. (VW)

13.9%; $23 (Sonoma Coast)

Sonoma-Cutrer 2019 Les Pierres Chardonnay

A step up from the outstanding Sonoma Coast bottling, this is a bit riper and more focused. Lime zest, lemon curd, crisp apple and a touch of crême brulée are in play here. The overall structure suggests that this will age nicely over the rest of this decade. Kudos to the winemaking team producing such a polished product from an iconic California Chardonnay producer with 40 years of history behind this new release. (T-10)

14.2%; $46 (Sonoma Coast)

St. Innocent

St. Innocent 2019 Freedom Hill Vineyard Chardonnay

All Dijon clone, this has aged two years in bottle and is entering a prime drinking window. It's focused and forward, with mixed apple, pear and banana, highlighted with peppery spice. Barrel fermented and aged in neutral oak, it has begun to smooth out and should continue to improve over the next three to five years.

974 cases; 13.5%; $36 (Willamette Valley)

Tranche

Tranche 2019 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay

The Celilo vineyard sits high above the Columbia River at the east end of the AVA, and has been carefully refurbished in recent years. It's a special place, and this wine reflects the careful winemaking headed by Spencer Williams. Fermented in a mix of concrete egg, new and neutral French oak, it's knitting itself together nicely already. This has a tight tension that foreshadows ageability; at the present time it's a detailed mix of tarragon and other herbs, lemon and other citrus, honeydew melon, Cosmic Crisp apple and, well, on and on. (CW)

297 cases; 13.8%; $45 (Columbia Gorge)

Walter Scott

Walter Scott 2020 Bois-Moi Chardonnay

This new, affordable cuvée blends fruit from a half dozen vineyards, including all the high-scoring featured sites in previous single vineyard releases. It's a screaming deal, a delicious wine, loaded with seamless flavors of green fruits, citrus, lemon verbena, beeswax and honeysuckle. The natural acids bring a lemon lollipop tang that resonates through the finish. (VW)

1950 cases; 13%; $28 (Willamette Valley)

Walter Scott 2020 Cuvée Anne Chardonnay

Compounded of grapes from Freedom Hill and Seven Springs, this was fermented and aged in two thirds new French oak puncheons. The flavors of barrel toast shine through in the aromas and inform the overall palate impression. It drinks like a much more expensive wine, with a definite French Burgundy profile, lush acids and complex flavors of citrus, notably oranges. Put this in the cellar and try again after 2025. (CW)

308 cases; 13%; $40 (Willamette Valley)

Walter Scott 2020 Freedom Hill Vineyard Chardonnay

This single-vineyard select gets the rock star 100% new French oak treatment. Freedom Hill is one of the finest sites in the Willamette Valley, with ancient seabed soils and a sheltered location in the shadow of the Coast Range. The tongue-tickling palate is refreshed with underlying oyster shell minerality, tart citrus acidity, and lingering flavors of lemon, pineapple and tangerine fruit. The barrel aging adds light touches of caramel and toast. Drink 2025 to 2035. (T-10)

90 cases; 13%; $65 (Mount Pisgah)

Westmount

Westmount 2020 Chardonnay

Appealing whiffs of toasted oak invite further exploration. The balanced palate offers medium-crisp apple, tangerine and melon fruits. With ample aeration it broadens out and adds a lick of caramel through the finish. It's got good length and remains clean and flavorful throughout. (VW)

1000 cases; 13.1%; $25 (Willamette Valley)

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NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only exceptional wines are shown, no negative reviews. Non-digital publications face long delays between the time wines are tasted and reviews actually appear in print. My notes are posted immediately with links to the winery website, so you may purchase them directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed on this website. Please contact me at paulgwine@me.com with your feedback and suggestions for future posts.

Coming next week:  May the Force (Majeure) be with you!

Heads Up:  In the coming weeks and months I am going to do features on Cabernet Franc, Syrah, GSM blends and other Rhône reds and blends. I am also planning a detailed look at the wines from the McMinnville AVA. Please send current and upcoming releases for these features no later than the end of September. Shipping information is published on this website or text me at paulgwine@me.com for details. Wineries seeking a full profile on this website may write me with your specific proposal and we'll put our heads together.

Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt