Allen Shoup, Long Shadows and the Maturation of Washington Wines
Sixteen years ago the University of California Press published "Washington Wines & Wineries: the Essential Guide" – my attempt to tie a bow on a quarter century of tasting and writing about Washington wines. A significantly updated second edition was published in 2010, but the first book included some interesting material worth reflecting upon from the vantage point of today.
One of the main themes at the time was the near-unanimous criticism of the state's wines from writers outside of the region. I noted the lack of support in-state, writing that virtually no restaurants in eastern Washington, and few on the wet side, even bothered to carry Washington wines. In the concluding chapter I detailed what I felt were the main criticisms (from other well-known writers) of Washington's wines. My intention was not to pile on criticism, but to spark a discussion about how to address the negativity and move the industry forward.
I won't go into those specifics here, but I do want to revisit one small essay from that final chapter. In conclusion I interviewed ten leading winemakers and industry executives and asked them each to share some thoughts on the unique strengths, the glaring weaknesses and the most important challenges facing Washington wineries and growers in the years ahead.
Among the respondents was Allen Shoup, who had recently founded Long Shadows Vintners following a successful career at the helm of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates (then called Stimson Lane). As an introduction I wrote that Shoup "began his wine career in Modesto, California, where he reported to Ernest Gallo. In 1979, he joined Chateau Ste. Michelle where, as CEO, he developed a portfolio of Washington and California wineries and initiated joint ventures that brought Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Germany’s Dr. Ernst Loosen to Washington. Shoup is also a founder of the Washington Wine Institute and the Northwest Wine Auction. He helped to create the Washington Wine Commission and was instrumental in organizing the American Vintners Association. His newest project, Long Shadows Vintners, is a consortium of wineries, each individually owned and managed with a marquee winemaker overseeing production."
What follows is a slightly condensed version of his remarks.
AS: “While a few Washington wines have had moments of success in global markets, most notably in London, it must be conceded that at the moment we are not on the radar screens of any of the important international markets.
"I don’t see a short term correction for this situation (although I do hope that my project, with its international portfolio of winemakers, might do slightly better than most). Washington viticulture doesn’t have the critical mass of awareness, the arsenal of marketing tools (nor the financial capability to create them), or sufficient volumes of low-priced wines to support a marketing drive. Nor do we have sufficient volumes of high-demand fine wines to aggressively penetrate these markets.
"More significant is the fact that we still have not effectively developed the domestic market. While the west coast is relatively well-informed about Washington wines, we are still somewhat a novelty in the east and Midwest, and for most unsophisticated consumers we are virtually unknown.
"I think we could be logically viewed as a 'California wannabe' but after all they paved all the roads we are now traveling. We should not re-invent the wheel in this effort. Having said that, long-term we must lay down our own trail, our own unique reason for being.
"We are a very different growing region. The uncontrolled variables of the other great regions – spring frost, cloud cover, rain and mold-causing humidity, rain at harvest, disease, lack of moisture when needed (in areas that don’t allow or won’t support irrigation) – are all virtually non-factors here in Washington. That’s not to say we are totally immune to these problems, but for now they seem to be rare.
"Our weaknesses are mostly attributable to our youth. I believe we have only climbed to about 10 percent of our eventual knowledge and understanding of the Columbia valley viticultural region. We have just started doing the clonal research, experimenting with water management techniques and trellising, and matching site selections to specific varietals. We have yet to attract a critical mass of well-trained enologists and experienced wine grape growers who can take advantage of what mother nature has bestowed upon us.
"But this is as much good news as bad news, for we are already making wines that compete with some of the finest wines in the world. Not a lot yet, but still more than one would expect given our youth. To come this far so soon with only 10 percent of the knowledge available begs the question ‘How high is up?’ Washington’s future with the proper commitment to excellence could be very bright indeed."
PG: A look back from today through what a friend calls "the old retrospectroscope" makes it clear that Shoup intended to address many of these concerns with a wide-reaching continuation of his earlier efforts to enroll internationally-known winemakers in a grand plan to make wines from Washington grapes under their guidance. With that, Long Shadows made its entrance.
As the website recounts, Shoup's vision for Long Shadows was (and remains) to create a group of ultra-premium wines, each with an exceptional international winemaker, working together to elevate Washington wine to true world-class status.
In order to carry out these ambitious goals he needed a full-time, on-site Director of Winemaking to work with the impressive stable of consultants which included Randy Dunn (Napa, Feather Cabernet Sauvignon), John Duval (Australia, Sequel Syrah), Philippe Melka and Agustin Huneeus, Sr. (Napa, Pirouette Red Wine), Michel Rolland (France, Pedestal Merlot), Armin Diel (Germany, Poet’s Leap Riesling), and father-and-son winemakers Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari (Italy, Saggi Red Wine). For this unique position he drafted Gilles Nicault.
Gilles grew up in southern France and graduated from the University of Avignon with a four-year degree in viticulture and enology. He polished his skills at wineries in the Côtes-du-Rhône, Provence and Champagne regions before moving to Washington state to further expand his winemaking knowledge.
As Director of Winemaking and Viticulture for Long Shadows he oversees the production of all wines and recently assumed the complete winemaking duties for Poet’s Leap and Saggi, continuing in the style of their original consultants. He also makes a special wine under the Côté Nicault label as a tribute to his home and winemaking roots.
Nicault firmly believes that his work in the vineyards is equally important as his role at the winery. Long Shadows purchases grapes from carefully selected sites throughout the Columbia valley. "We do everything by hand in the vineyard," he explains. "Once we get the flavor profile [by tasting the grapes on site] we can harvest at lower brix. We don't focus on any one site; it's important to be much more diverse. What I really want is that relationship with the grower. If that isn't symbiotic a contract won't help."
I sat down with Gilles at the Long Shadows winery in Walla Walla and tasted through the extensive lineup, then revisited the wines over the next several days. Here are my notes, white wines first, then reds, all recommended.
Long Shadows 2019 Dance Chardonnay
Bright, spicy, with well-built flavors of apple butter, pastry, papaya and vanilla cookie. This may be sold out as the website lists the 2020.
700 cases; 14%; $42 (Columbia Valley)
Long Shadows 2021 Cymbal Sauvignon Blanc
The first vintage of Cymbal was in 2018, and it has quickly become a fan favorite. The 2021 was sourced from Gamache, Boushey and Bacchus vineyards – a terrific trio. It's an ideal summer wine, immaculately fresh and loaded with zesty flavors of grapefruit, white peach and lemongrass, brushing against the edges of more tropical fruits. Fermented in a mix of cement egg and stainless steel drums, it was finished briefly in French oak barrels, one fifth new. By any measure it's bright and spicy, lightly dusted with white pepper and clean and persistent through the finish. NOTE: this was my Wine of the Week last week.
1065 cases; 14.2%; $35 (Columbia Valley)
Long Shadows 2020 Poet's Leap Riesling
Hand-picked and whole cluster pressed, this is clean, fresh and spicy, like a richer German Kabinett. It's got a touch of sweetness – not a bone dry style. It's still quite young with long term aging potential (a 2012 tasted alongside the 2020 was just beginning to show some mature lengthening of the finish). The 2020 features lovely citrus, apple and white peach fruit with balanced acids.
4440 cases; 12.3%; $20 (Columbia Valley)
Long Shadows 2018 Saggi
This is a Washington take on a SuperTuscan blend – 58% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Syrah. It may be the best Saggi in my (somewhat limited) experience, aromatic and pretty, feeling lighter on the palate than the relatively high alcohol would suggest. You'll taste fresh strawberries and nutmeg spice, along with touches of herbal astringency as it rolls across the palate. Moderately long, it's consistent through the finish, without tightening up and gaining concentration.
2260 cases; 14.8%; $60 (Columbia Valley)
Long Shadows 2018 Chester-Kidder Red
The blend here is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Syrah and 8% Petit Verdot, inspired by a southern French wine from Coteaux Aix-en-Provence (Chateau Revelette). It's dark and tannic, capturing the gravitas of the Cab and the spicy earthiness of the Syrah. There's plenty of pretty mixed berry fruit backed with firm tannins. It fades gently and finishes clean.
2425 cases; 14.9%; $65 (Columbia Valley)
Long Shadows 2018 Sequel Syrah
Sourced from Boushey, Bacchus and Red Mountain vineyards, this is firm, tannic and spicy. It puts the emphasis on wild berries, leafy herb and peppery phenolics that may be attributed to the inclusion of 30% whole clusters. The overall balance is fine, and the wine is solidly varietal though without the funk found in other top Syrahs. I place it stylistically betwixt and between more extreme types of Northwest Syrahs.
2215 cases; 14.9%; $60 (Columbia Valley)
Long Shadows 2018 Pirouette
This classic Bordeaux blend is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. It brings black fruits, firm tannins and veins of graphite and espresso. The balance as with all the Long Shadows wines is impeccable. At the moment the tannins retain a certain grittiness, and this wine will probably drink at its best toward the end of this decade.
2475 cases; 14.9%; $65 (Columbia Valley)
Long Shadows 2018 Pedestal Merlot
This vintage of Pedestal is 82% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Malbec. It puts the lie to the general impression that Merlot is a wimpy, rather dull grape. Not so here. Loaded with blueberry, marionberry and black cherry fruit, it's firm and sturdy on the palate, with a robust cassis-infused finish. The tannins are perfectly polished, adding further streaks of graphite and a hint of anise. This complex, powerful wine has the stuffing to age well over the next decade.
2890 cases; 15.2%; $65 (Columbia Valley)
Long Shadows 2018 Feather Cabernet Sauvignon
Here is a classic, pure and elegant take on Washington state Cabernet Sauvignon. It's firm, polished and smooth, and saturates the palate with a luscious wash of blackberries, black cherries, cassis, espresso and dark chocolate. Further details of graphite and granite elevate the lingering finish, and the wine throughout shows excellent concentration and depth. Drink now and on to 2040.
3720 cases; 14.7%; $70 (Columbia Valley)
Côté Nicault 2018 GSM
From supervising Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault this special wine is a tribute to his Provençal roots and has been made since 2010. The 2018 is 36% Mourvèdre, 32% Grenache and 32% Syrah. At first taste it's a fruity, open and tasty GSM, but re-visited on the second and third day it has fleshed out and become a more powerful and perfectly balanced Rhône-inspired wine with the structure to age. Deep black cherry fruit highlighted with hints of truffle, cola and graphite linger through a finish that is satiny smooth.
308 cases; 14.9%; $85 (Red Mountain)
More Recommendations From Recent Tastings
Along with the Pinot Gris featured this week, Dion has released a couple of outstanding and very limited Pinot Noirs.
Dion 2020 Pinot Noir
Like many Willamette Valley wineries, Dion faced fire and smoke issues during and after the harvest in 2020. They picked early, as evidenced by the low alcohol, but made wise decisions all along the way. This is a subtle, elegant, aromatic Pinot Noir, with flavors of watermelon and raspberries, nicely supported by fresh acids. There's a light touch of toasted coconut from aging in 50% new barrels. (Only sold in tasting room).
200 cases; 12.4%; $35 (Laurelwood District)
Dion 2019 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir
Harvested early and finished light, this nonetheless strikes a pure, bell-like tone that brilliantly captures the essence of Pinot Noir. I mean really, if this had a fancy Burgundy label on it you'd be paying ten times this amount for this bottle - if you could find it. Complex and layered flavors of berries, cherries, plums, hazelnut butter and hints of underbrush are masterfully melded together. All estate-fruit, perfectly ripened.
75 cases; 12.5%; $50 (Laurelwood District)
I recently chose the 2020 Affinités Chardonnay as my Wine of the Week (6/11 post). Here are more excellent current releases from Nicolas-Jay.
Nicolas-Jay 2020 Fleur Blanche White Pinot Noir
Old vines from the Bishop Creek vineyard are the source here. Lovely floral aromas accompany a full-flavored fruity wine with a mix of lemony fruit with tropical highlights. Wines such as this may be the silver linings from the smoke-clouded 2020 vintage. Quickly pressing the Pinot grapes would be one good way to reduce any impact from smoke. This is a lush, lovely and seductive wine, and if there's a thin trail of smoke, it's a feature and a benefit.
160 cases; 13%; $55 (Yamhill-Carlton)
Nicolas-Jay 2019 L’Ensemble Pinot Noir
This is just the second vintage of this reserve level, select barrel blend comprised of their eight vineyard sites. It's tightly bound up and requires consideration aeration. It's interesting that such a high level cuvée yet remains at low finished alcohol. Slowly unwrapping it reveals a mix of red fruits, hints of chalk and delicate notes of truffle and dried herb. A contemplative wine, it's one to sip slowly and return to frequently as it develops in the glass. Native yeast was used, and one third was aged in new French oak.
1329 cases; 13%; $70 (Willamette Valley)
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NOTE: My reviews reflect my decades of experience tasting and writing about wines. The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Instead I give you honest, thoughtful and timely recommendations. Only exceptional wines are shown, no negative reviews. Unlike print publications, which may face long delays between the time wines are tasted and reviews actually appear, my notes are posted before wines are sold out, so you can purchase them directly from the producer. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed on this website. Contact me at paulgwine@me.com with your feedback and suggestions for future posts.
Coming next week: a conversation with Chuck Reininger, who just celebrated his first quarter century of winemaking. Also a comprehensive exploration of current and upcoming Reininger and Helix wines.
Heads Up: Looking out a few weeks I'm planning a detailed survey of the McMinnville AVA. If you are making any and all McMinnville AVA wines, whether or not your winery is located there, I would like to include them in my upcoming tastings. Please ship wines to me between August 1st and September 21st. I welcome your wines and your thoughts on this fascinating AVA.
