In my August 13th survey of Chardonnays I reviewed a large number of recommended current releases, principally from Oregon and Washington. More recently I had the chance to taste some California Chards, fewer in number but just as impressive. Shortly after I received this note from a reader:

"I got into a conversation recently with a neighbor who said she was put off by what she called “oaky Chards”. I tried her on a Chablis and she still claimed to taste oak. Is there such a thing as a Chard that’s never seen oak that  I can get around here?"

Setting aside the "I can get around here" part of the question – I don't have the sort of x-ray vision that would enable me to know what wines are available anywhere outside of my home town – I think it's important to dig into the more provocative part of the question regarding the existence (or not) of Chardonnays that don't see any oak.

There are many stainless steel (inox) Chardonnays; in fact in recent years they seem to be proliferating. Some are fermented and aged completely in stainless; other unoaked examples may have been made in clay amphorae or concrete eggs. More common are Chardonnays fermented in stainless and aged in neutral oak. It's technically possible that a wee bit of toasty flavor could be picked up from a neutral barrel, assuming it's been used just a couple of times before. In my view, Chardonnays that are given moderate amounts of time in relatively small percentages of new oak are usually the better for it. They pick up a range of delicious accents and grace notes without necessarily tasting too oaky. But what is too oaky really?

When recently-bottled or just-released Chardonnays seem to be overwhelmed by oaky flavors they may simply need more time to meld together. Right now if you are drinking Chardonnays from 2021 you can bet that they haven't had a whole lot of cellar time. Such wines will often respond to aggressive aeration and/or decanting. Really inexpensive Chardonnays that have a strong oak flavor (often a thick hit of vanilla and tobacco) it's a good bet that they've been fermented with some sort of oak chips, a cheap alternative to new barrels. These are so common that they can be found on Amazon in a wide variety of wood types, shapes and toasts.

If you are tasting more expensive Chardonnays – say $30 and up – the oaky flavors are almost certainly from a winemaker's selections of new oak barrels. The intensity of those flavors has a lot to do with the type of barrel, the degree of barrel toast and the amount of time the wine spent in barrel prior to bottling. The bottom line here is that a question about eliminating any and all "oaky Chardonnay flavors" is not specific enough to address with any certainty. If you are in the anti-oak brigade then by all means you should seek out all-stainless Chardonnays (including some though not all Chablis) and see if they please you. Just be aware that many of these wines, especially the cheap ones, are insipid, flavorless wines and may not be 100% Chardonnay but rather include much cheaper grapes to fill out the blend.

In my past reviews and in those printed here for the first time I will always pass along whatever specific information I am given as far as the wine's oak treatment, along with my own impressions. I encourage you to do your own testing and as always give every wine the time and attention to show its best. Here are some good wines to try, both oaky and more gently oaked.

Harken 2020 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay

Released over a year ago, this flavorful wine honors the toasty, oaky flavors on which the reputation of California Chardonnay was built. Ripe tree fruits and moderate acids are swathed in buttery barrel highlights. A fine value and a wine that will certainly please oak lovers.

14.2%; $15 (California)

Intercept 2021 Chardonnay

Retired NFL defensive star Charles Woodson's cleverly-named wine project uses Monterey county grapes in this well-balanced, lightly oaky wine. It matches lightly sweet apple, pear and peach fruit to barrel spices that bring a lush streak of caramel through the long finish.

14.5%; $20 (Monterey County)

Rombauer 2020 Chardonnay

Now entering their fifth vineyard of winemaking, the Rombauers have crafted a detailed, complex wine with layers of fruit, butter and barrel toast. All of this rather potent mix is polished, balanced and seamless, lending itself to contemplative gulping (if such is possible). Or give it the one-word review (no points needed):  Yum. 

14.5%; $40 (Carneros)

Freeman 2020 Ryo-Fu Chardonnay

Ryo-fu, notes the winery, means "cool breeze" in Japanese. The reference is to the chilly fog that blows in from the Pacific and covers the two vineyards that comprise this Chardonnay. It's sleek and subtle, with pristine apple fruit and hints of cucumber and green melon. The acids are proportionate and supportive, without dominating. Just 10% of the barrels were new, adding the gentlest hint of butter and toast. This is a delicious wine with excellent aging potential.

250 cases; 13.5%; $45 (Green Valley/Russian River Valley)

Freeman 2019 Hawk Hill Vineyard Chardonnay

The Sonoma Coast wineries (at least those actually on or near the ocean) make refined, often delicate wines that stand apart from those made further inland. A cool site, a cool vintage and a later-than-usual harvest add layers of complexity here, making a Chardonnay that relies on its fruit rather than new barrels to have an impact. A couple of extra years in bottle have helped also; although this has been released for some time a sample bottle just reached me this month. Subtle threads of mixed fruits, herbs and toasted nuts weave through this lovely wine. Drink now through the rest of the decade.

330 cases; 12.9%; $52 (Sonoma Coast)

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NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only exceptional wines are shown, no negative reviews. Non-digital publications face long delays between the time wines are tasted and reviews actually appear in print. My notes are posted immediately with links to the winery website, so you may purchase them directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed on this website. Please contact me at paulgwine@me.com with your feedback and suggestions for future posts.

Heads Up:  In the coming weeks and months I am going to do features on Cabernet Franc, Syrah, GSM blends and other Rhône reds and blends. I am also planning a detailed look at the wines from the McMinnville AVA. Please send current and upcoming releases for these features no later than the end of September. Shipping information is published on this website or text me at paulgwine@me.com for details. Wineries seeking a full profile on this website may write me with your specific proposal and we'll put our heads together.

Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt