Cornerstone Cellars and the Unique Oakville Station Vineyard
The Napa Valley is loaded with an astounding number of world-class vineyards, often tied to world-class wines that sell at stratospheric prices. Think Screaming Eagle at $3000/bottle – if you can find it. It's long past the time that I have had any chance at all to taste such wines. So imagine my delight when I discovered these exceptional Cornerstone releases from the Oakville Station Vineyard – not inexpensive to be sure, but waay below the pricing of many of their neighbors.
Where and what is this vineyard you may ask (as I did). According to the Cornerstone website it was carved out from a portion of the iconic To-Kalon vineyard, which is connected in my mind to the greatest years of the Robert Mondavi winery. To-Kalon and Far Niente are its immediate neighbors, and nearby in the Oakville AVA are Opus One, Martha's Vineyard and Harlan Estate. For the past half century the Oakville Station vineyard has served as a world-class research facility for UC Davis.
From the Davis website: "The Oakville Station is a 40-acre research vineyard located in the heart of the Napa Valley. For more than 50 years, the department has conducted critical viticulture research at this site, including trials of clones, rootstocks, vine spacing, pruning levels, and irrigation, to name just a few." Another source notes its original owner was the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which purchased the land in 1903 and first planted it as an experimental vineyard. It fell into disrepair during Prohibition, until the government deeded it to the University of California in 1954.
One of a handful of wineries allowed to access these grapes for commercial production, Cornerstone Cellars was co-founded and is still owned by Michael & Beni Dragutsky. The winemaker for Cornerstone (since 2014) is the talented Kari Auringer, who made the 2018 wines profiled here.
Kari is in the midst of a searingly hot harvest and crush but kindly took the time to answer a couple of questions about her experience working this vineyard. She writes "I probably spend more time in this vineyard than any other. The more time I spend in the vineyard, the less time I need to spend in the vineyard. Developing any vineyard takes time. And, developing a relationship with a vineyard also takes time. I appreciate the years of work and research the university has devoted to this prime spot and I feel a deep connection to its history and its contribution to grape growing and wine making. It is inspiring to see the enthusiasm that each new group of students brings to the vineyard."
I asked if working with these grapes changed her winemaking in any way. She responded "Yes it has. My long-term relationship with this vineyard has given me the opportunity to fine tune my winemaking and specifically the blending process. While harvest tends to be the most exciting time of the year, and determining the ideal harvest date is critical, I am most excited about creating the blends. That is where the artistry and creativity in winemaking occurs. A tiny bit of any wine (as little as 1%) in a blend has an impact on the final blend. We have been sourcing Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon fruit, which greatly increases my blending options. It’s like giving an artist more colors to work with."
As I tasted, and re-tasted, and re-re-tasted these wines – the four from Oakville Station and four others from different sites – the careful blending and overall seamless elegance of wines across the entire portfolio was clearly evident. Though I had my favorites (indicated in the notes below) I would happily serve any and all of these to anyone with a taste for subtle, characterful Napa wines. As is often the case with the best wines, these give you more enjoyment the more time and attention you give them.
Cornerstone Cellars 2018 Oakville Station Merlot
This is 92% Merlot (planted in 1990), with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc finishing out the blend. It's a smooth, lush, approachable wine packed with juicy flavors of red and black berries. The tannins are polished and aging in half neutral/half new French oak adds darker notes of black olive, charcoal and espresso, even a touch of granite, all beautifully integrated. It's more refined and elegant than the elevated abv might suggest. Optimal drinking is now and through the rest of the decade.
150 cases; 15.4%; $85 (Oakville)
Cornerstone Cellars 2018 Oakville Station Cabernet Sauvignon
This is a well-tempered Cabernet, with 6% each Merlot and Cab Franc added to the final blend. It's smooth, supple and of moderate intensity, but nicely captures the essence of the variety with gentle streaks of lemongrass and peavine. 70% of the barrels were new, though apparently rather lightly toasted. The wine breathes open adding accents of tobacco, mint and cacao. Drinks well now but may be best after 2025.
395 cases; 14.4%; $120 (Oakville)
Cornerstone Cellars 2018 Oakville Station Red Wine
Kari Auringer's Cornerstone wines have a svelte, seamless, silky mouthfeel that makes them instantly accessible and seems to propel the luscious berry fruit flavors front and center. This classic blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon saw two thirds new French oak, and along with the supple flavors of raspberry and blackberry jam comes a lick of almond butter. This is beautifully proportioned, coming together in the back palate with medium grip and firm, ripe tannins. Still delicious on day three, tied with the Franc for favorite status.
714 6-pack cases; 15.1%; $120 (Oakville)
Cornerstone Cellars 2018 Oakville Station Cabernet Franc
This is a totally yummy Cab Franc – not a word I typically use for this grape. Powered by fruit flavors of blackberries and black cherries, along with a hint of Concord jelly, this well-structured wine is framed with highlights of nut butter and salted caramel. It persists through the palate into a finish with medium concentration and grip. This should develop further over the next decade or longer.
208 cases; 15.6%; $110 (Oakville)
Cornerstone Cellars 2020 Farina Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
This is a leesy, creamy, beautifully-textured Sauv Blanc made in a style that is unmistakably Californian. A mix of concrete egg, stainless steel and Acacia barrels were the fermentation vessels, yielding a finished wine with bright fruit, steely acids and gentle accents of barrel toast. The bâtonnage and time in such diverse vessels adds layers of texture and extends the finish. It's full-bodied, almost fleshy, and yet retains that steely spine throughout.
135 cases; 14.1%; $35 (Sonoma Mountain)
Cornerstone Cellars 2018 Benchlands Cabernet Sauvignon
Sourced from a mix of vineyards including Oakville Station, this puts high quality Napa Cab within reach of more consumers, and the relatively high production (for this boutique estate) means it's more widely available also. Though nicely-ripened, the flavors retain threads of herb and licorice, along with ample black fruits. The wine is taut and focused, a bit brambly and carries a whiff of pepper also. Also in the blend are small amounts of Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Two thirds of the barrels were new.
3854 6-pack cases; 14.6%; $75 (Benchlands)
Cornerstone Cellars 2018 Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon
Firm and dense with cassis, lead pencil, coffee grounds, black fruits, licorice and a touch of ash, this strikes a powerful chord and sustains it throughout a long finish. Here is your Cabernet for prime rib or burgers, game meats or aged cheeses. It's fine already but likely to continue to improve over the next 5-10 years.
700 6-pack cases; 15.2%; $95 (Calistoga)
Cornerstone Cellars 2018 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon
For me this is the top gun among the outstanding 2018 Cabernets from Cornerstone. Aromatic and loaded with flavors of black fruits, coffee, clean earth, graphite and licorice, it captures everything one looks for in classic Napa Cabernet from the valley epicenter. The balance is superb and the tight-knit, impeccable finish should only continue to improve over decades. I finished the bottle on its third day, and found it to be as fresh and delicious as on day one.
633 6-pack cases; 15.2%; $130 (Rutherford)
https://cornerstonecellars.com/wines/
https://store.cornerstonecellars.com/Wines/Oakville
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only exceptional wines are shown, no negative reviews. Non-digital publications face long delays between the time wines are tasted and reviews actually appear in print. My notes are posted immediately with links to the winery website, so you may purchase them directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed on this website. Please contact me at paulgwine@me.com with your feedback and suggestions for future posts.
Coming next week: Current releases from more outstanding Walla Walla wineries
Heads Up: Coming this fall are features on Cabernet Franc, Syrah, GSM blends and more. I am also planning a detailed look at the wines from the McMinnville AVA, and a look at the all-too-often overlooked Willamette Valley Sauvignon Blancs. Please send current and upcoming releases for these features as soon as possible, but there is no final deadline as I can and do post regular updates to past features.. Shipping information is published on this website or text me at paulgwine@me.com for details. Wineries seeking a full profile on this website may write me with your specific proposal and we'll put our heads together.
Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt
