Rockin' Walla Walla & TruthTeller/Miscreant/Eternal Wines

The Walla Walla Valley is often compared to a semi-romanticized version of Napa in its earlier, more rustic days, say 40 years ago. Here in Walla Walla, which just was named America's Best Wine Region for the third year in a row, it's a given that visitors are welcomed, fees are low, winemakers and owners are often behind the counter pouring their wines, and the overall conviviality is something to be justly proud of.

That said, there's a lot of non-wine activity this time of year, and the coming week is loaded.

On Wednesday August 31st) the 156th annual Walla Walla Fair and Frontier Days kicks off and goes through the weekend. On Thursday my home town of Waitsburg is hosting a Main Street Open House with many new businesses opening their doors for special events and previews of great things ahead. Among them:  Mrs. G's Waitsburg Art Garden will feature a preview peek at upcoming ArtSquared works and music from a live cellist; the Royal Block Wine Bar and Hotel will offer tours of the newly renovated second-floor lodging and host the monthly open mic (I'll be playing along with some of my bandmates); at American 35, owners Judy and Tom Bennett are celebrating with all-day happy hour, an "Open House" cocktail, music, and a chance to top your pizza. Mike Easton and Erin Carr, recent transplants from Seattle, will be open for a preview of their Bar Barcetto (formerly jimgermanbar), serving mini vegetarian pasta and non-alcoholic cocktails. Ten Ton Coffee will be serving espresso drinks and desserts in the evening for the first time. And many more businesses old and new will open their doors that night from 4 to 9 pm. Bonus: most events are kid friendly.

Meanwhile I've been catching up on many of the newer wineries that have opened here in recent years, and this blog will periodically steer you towards what I believe are among the most interesting. This week I am particularly excited about TruthTeller and Eternal Wine, both with extensive offerings of exceptional wines that you'll want to explore on your next visit to Walla Walla.

TruthTeller (and its associated Miscreant Project) occupy a tasting room in the heart of Main Street. Originally headquartered in Woodinville, they made the move east a few years ago and caught my attention this past winter with the release of their Quip rosé, which I loved. I also loved the note on the back label, which read "when we learned our last name means 'village idiot' we did a dance, told a joke, and started a winery."I stopped in and chatted with co-owner/winemaker Chris Loeliger on a rather quiet mid-week afternoon this month, and he sent me home with a dozen new releases which I have thoroughly enjoyed. The wines are sourced from a wide variety of vineyards; the blends are done with scale and precision; the varietal wines, though young, show real promise for cellaring. And if you're a bargain hunter (who isn't?) the Miscreant Project wines should go to the top of your shopping list.

Intrigued, I sent a few questions to Chris and I am publishing them with his written replies.

PG:  Quite a few of the wines you sent me are unreleased but drinking well. Are they available at the tasting room or not at all?

CL:  With the exception of a few wines where we are still pouring a previous vintage, yes, the new wines are available in the tasting rooms. As it is, we have a lot of wines to choose from so we are holding a few back. For instance we have just a few cases of our wine The Mimic (not provided to you for review) left. It is a PV dominant blend and we have made the decision not to put our wine Retort which is 100% PV on the menu until The Mimic has come off the menu.

PG:  Any thoughts on the current releases you’d like to share?

CL:  In general I am always so impressed with the quality of the wines on the Miscreant Project wine list. Those wines continue to impress people and we do our best to keep the prices on those wines well within reach of the casual wine buyer. We know we are hitting our goal with those wines as we get large orders from bottle shops across the state for distribution in their own wine clubs. We’re very pleased with where we are in terms of the balance of different wines on the TruthTeller menu. Our goal has always been to offer great choices to our customers. While we believe each individual wine is very good, we don’t really believe in being especially known for 'one wine' – we want to be known for the opportunity to choose from a variety of great wines. Everyone’s palate is different and people like different things! We feel we’ve achieved a strong overall representation of classic Washington wines across our TruthTeller label. And, we have added even more diversity with the selections on our TMP label, which are sometimes lesser known wines.

PG:  You draw from a whole lot of different vineyards. Can you talk a bit about how you make those decisions, how they impact blending and how you manage to keep track of so many different sites?

CL:  "There are, of course, many approaches to making wine and choosing vineyard sites. Rather than concentrating on the perfect terroir for any one specific grape, at TruthTeller we have taken the approach that we want to find the best Cab Sauv, the best Merlot, the best Syrah, etc. in the aim of creating the best blends. This leads us to some obvious choices. Red Mountain (Kiona, Heart of the Hill, Quintessence) for Cab Sauv, Walla Walla, Les Collines Block 50, for Syrah. Practicality plays a hand in the decisions as well. Proximity to our original winery in Woodinville led us to sourcing multiple grapes from Sugarloaf and Elephant Mountain (both farmed by Joe Hattrup) and fewer grapes from Walla Walla. Ironically those Yakima vineyards are now the most distant grapes for us now that we are in Walla Wallla and the Les Collines fruit is the closest. However, we have some devoted fans for some of the wines from those Yakima sites so we are hesitant to make changes too quickly.

"Blending is a process as you well know! There are a few of our wines that we work very hard to maintain specific AVAs for. We always start with our reserve Cab, Confidante. We do our best to maintain that as 100% Red Mountain. After selecting our favorite barrels for that we set those aside for another year of aging. Similarly we always maintain our Cynic Syrah as 100% Walla Walla. We are less specific about vineyards/AVAs on the balance of the wines. But those wines do mostly follow some classic blending styles… left and right bank Bordeaux, etc. But I would point out again specificity to one location for terroir is not our driving force. We are looking for balanced, well structured wines with great complexity to them. We understand that approach falls into the “of course you do” category of winemaking. But as TruthTellers we think it bears repeating and it has served us very well we think.  And I drive a lot!

"Joking aside, I grew up in Tokyo, Japan which is about as far away from farming grapes as you can get. I accept that I am not a farmer. I have worked very hard to select vineyards with managers that I respect greatly and who will work with me at my level. Scott Williams (Kiona) has been amazing, Andrew Schultz (now at Klipsun) was my introduction to Sugarloaf and Elephant Mountain, Brad Sorenson at Les Collines have all been outstanding to work with and help guide me. I do spend a lot of time on the road to the vineyards. I have been known to leave Woodinville at 4 in the morning to make my way to Walla Walla to visit vineyards and pick up grape samples on the entire route back to Woodinville. Thankfully that equivalent vineyard visit trip from Walla Walla is much easier!"

Chris assures me that the wines listed as not yet released will be out soon so considers this advance notice on what to look for.

The Miscreant Project

The Miscreant Project 2020 Right Bastard Red

This is three quarters Merlot, one quarter Cabernet Sauvignon, with good concentration and precision. Flavors come to a pinpoint focus, with cassis and coffee, dark chocolate and a touch of charred wood. Just bottled and not yet released.

141 cases; 14.4%; $19 (Columbia Valley)

The Miscreant Project 2019 Boldfaced Lie

A Cab/Merlot blend, this mixes fruit from Red Mountain, the Royal Slope and Yakima valley sites. It's a terrific value, with the density and stylish finesse of more expensive blends. It spent 28 months in barrel, 37% new, which may account for both the intensity and the instantly open and accessible flavors. Black fruits, espresso beans, dark chocolate and polished tannins put this well above its competition at this price point.

215 cases; 14.4%; $19 (Columbia Valley)

The Miscreant Project 2020 GobSMack'd

The casual label reader might easily miss the layers of puns and jokester references scattered on the wine labels and throughout this winery's highly entertaining website. Here the name puts the letters GSM in caps, which tips off the blend:  47% Syrah, 27% Grenache and 27% Mourvèdre. Another sensational value from the Miscreant Project, this layered and textured wine mixes light red fruits, sandalwood, almond butter, smooth almost silky tannins and a finishing hint of buttered popcorn into a splendidly lovely and affordable bottle.

262 cases; 14.5%; $19 (Columbia Valley)

TruthTeller

TruthTeller 2021 Frolic Viognier

Fermented in all stainless, this blends Yakima Valley and Walla Walla Valley fruit, yielding a light, mineral-drenched, citrusy white wine that sings with electricity. Even for those who shy away from truly ripe, intense – let's say it – hot, alcoholic Viogniers, this has great appeal. It's racy, elegant, loaded with citrus rind, botanical highlights and refreshing acids. In short, it's a dream drink for summer and fall. This may or may not get better with age, but why wait?

183 cases; 13.5%; $25 (Columbia Valley)

TruthTeller 2020 The Madman

This captivating red blend is 48% Syrah, 28% Cab Franc and 24% Cabernet Sauvignon. Maybe a Washington take on a SuperTuscan blend, however you define it this is beautifully done, all proportionate with each grape contributing to the seamless whole. There's a touch of pepper from the Syrah, a streak of coffee from the Franc, and a strong core of black fruits and firm tannins from both Bordeaux Cabs. With good structure and length, good balance and depth, this is a very fine wine that punches above its price point.

204 cases; 14.5%; $38 (Walla Walla Valley)

TruthTeller 2020 Pun

This Cab-dominated blend includes Malbec and Merlot as well. A dense mix of black fruits kicks off an aromatic wine with good penetration and details of pencil lead, black olive and grape stems. This is a very young wine and should be given a few more years of bottle age to reach its best drinking window.

166 cases; 14.3%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley)

TruthTeller 2020 Satire

This Merlot-dominated wine includes 30% Cab Franc/Cab Sauvignon. It's Right Bank all the way, with plenty of immediate appeal. Strawberry, raspberry and Bing cherry fruit is here in abundance, and those flavors segue through a long palate that brings details of peppery herb and lemon verbena. Recently bottled and not yet released, it's a gem worth waiting for.

174 cases; 14.5%; $30? (Columbia Valley)

TruthTeller 2020 The Clever Fool Cabernet Franc

Pure varietal, two thirds Elephant Mountain fruit, this is a tight, fine-tuned, steely wine with great tension and definition. The dark fruit flavors dig deep – cassis and black cherry, cola and char, espresso and a touch of granite. In short, a beautifully made wine with aging potential. Tasted prior to release.

150 cases; 14.5%; $ ? (Columbia Valley)

TruthTeller 2020 The Cynic Syrah

All Les Collines fruit, this fragrant wine sings of its purity right out of the glass. There's no doubt you are tasting Walla Walla Syrah here, with sappy purple fruits, a wide streak of balsamic, a lingering note of espresso, generous supporting acids and excellent length. If past is preview there may have been a bit of Viognier co-fermented though that is not indicated. Though young and recently bottled, this lovely wine is already showing well and should improve over the next 3-5 years.

116 cases; 14.7%; $43 (Walla Walla Valley)

TruthTeller 2019 The Confidante Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Sourced from one of the older blocks at the iconic Kiona vineyard, this pure Cab was given 30 months in oak. One barrel out of three was new. The wine grudgingly opens up with ample breathing, exposing layers of graphite, espresso, dark chocolate and myriad black fruits. Aerate, decant or simply cellar for another 3 to 5 years.

71 cases; 14.3%; $55 (Red Mountain)

Eternal Wine is part of the incubator group on the outskirts of the Airport District. Owner/winemaker Brad Binko makes a broad lineup of single vineyard, single varietal wines, and I had the chance to taste through several vintages of his Syrahs. The winery hosts live music on summer Thursdays and other special events throughout the year. A number of five-wine tastings with generous pours are available for $15, or pick any five wines for $20. Hard to find that in Napa.

Here are my favorites from an extensive tasting of Eternal Syrahs (and one GSM):

Eternal 2017 Optimism GSM

Sourced from multiple Walla Walla vineyards, this aromatic and nicely-structured wine is balanced and expressive, with lighter flavors of wild berries, tomato leaf, and an extended finish loaded with flavors of mushroom and char. This gives you more and more flavor as it opens and commands your attention.

120 cases; 14.5%; $49 (Walla Walla)

Eternal 2018 Quest Syrah

Sourced from the Lawrence vineyards in the Royal Slope AVA, this is a lighter style and slow to open up. Light, leafy notes ahead of tart flavors of mountain berries, black cherries and figs. Despite the high abv this drinks like a more elegant, less ripe wine, but as it breathes it adds texture and depth and detail.

62 cases; 15%; $59  (Columbia Valley)

Eternal 2017 Zen Syrah

Walla Walla's Les Collines is the vineyard profiled here, offering a textbook style of Walla Walla (non-Rocks) Syrah. It's got a foundation of purple fruits laced with highlights of leaf and streaks of espresso. The acids are well-balanced and add a touch of citrus to the lingering finish. This is a fine effort from a lighter vintage.

50 cases; 14.8%; $59  (Walla Walla)

Eternal 2016 Heritage Syrah

Sourced from the Morrison Lane vineyard, this features some of the oldest Syrah planted in the Walla Walla AVA. It shows old vine elegance, and despite the high abv the wine retains details throughout a long finish. Flavors build upon red berries, mature suggestions of figs and raisins and sinuous threads of balsamic and coffee. The proportionate acids and intriguing length make this a wine to contemplate while you enjoy the deep dive.

125 cases; 15%; $59  (Walla Walla)

Eternal 2016 Echo Syrah

Sourced from the Gamache vineyard this bursts open with lush and tangy flavors of mixed berries and baking spices leading into a mocha-soaked finish. At six years of age it remains fresh and forward, drinking beautifully in a prime time moment.

50 cases; 14.6%; $59  (Columbia Valley)

Eternal 2017 Darkness Syrah

Eternal makes a fascinating lineup of single vineyard Syrahs, this one from Walla Walla's Dwelley vineyard tops my list of favorites. Black fruits abound, along with dark chocolate and espresso highlights. The aromatics, texture, detail and length are impressive. It dries out in the finish with flavors of leaf and skin trailing.

72 cases; 15%; $59 (Walla Walla) 

Find them here.

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NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only exceptional wines are shown, no negative reviews. Non-digital publications face long delays between the time wines are tasted and reviews actually appear in print. My notes are posted immediately with links to the winery website, so you may purchase them directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed on this website. Please contact me at paulgwine@me.com with your feedback and suggestions for future posts.

Coming next week:  Back to California!

Heads Up:  In the coming weeks and months I am going to do features on Cabernet Franc, Syrah, GSM blends and other Rhône reds and blends. I am also planning a detailed look at the wines from the McMinnville AVA. Please send current and upcoming releases for these features no later than the end of September. Shipping information is published on this website or text me at paulgwine@me.com for details. Wineries seeking a full profile on this website may write me with your specific proposal and we'll put our heads together.

Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt