Three Vineyards That Brilliantly Express The McMinnville AVA Terroir

When the Willamette Valley was first sub-divided into six smaller sub-AVA's in 2005 the most mysterious for me was McMinnville. Home to just a handful of wineries and vineyards, even today only 744 acres out of roughly 39,000 within its borders are planted. There are just a half dozen wineries actually in the AVA, though many more source grapes from its two principal vineyards – Hyland and Momtazi.

McMinnville is one of a small number of AVAs that are defined at least in part by elevation. The vineyards must lie between 200 and 1,000 feet, which differentiates their soil and rock substrata from surrounding areas. In some places soils are shallow and rocky, primarily uplifted marine sedimentary loams and silts, with a base of basalt. But in others there can be areas with deep, well-draining silty soils. 

A more universal defining factor is the impact of the winds blowing through the Van Duzer Corridor, a gap in the Coast Range southwest of the AVA. These winds reduce problems such as mildew and thicken grape skins, making for more robust, dark-colored wines.

Momtazi

It was the cumulative experience of tasting hundreds of McMinnville-designated wines over the past decade that captured my imagination. It led to a feature on Oregon's Grand Cru vineyards that I wrote for Wine Enthusiast in 2016. One of the five I profiled was Momtazi, 260 biodynamically-farmed acres first developed in 1997. There must be two dozen wineries at least that feature these grapes along with the estate's own Maysara winery. And long before I'd visited the vineyard I could taste something special in the wines.

Moe Momtazi grew up in the Iranian city of Shiraz, and his family made wine from the red Shahani grape (a non-vinifera grape most often used as raisins). “One thing we had in the old country was natural farming,” he told me. “You put back into nature what you take out of it, in a natural way, using things that nature provides. My grandfather," he adds, "was a purist who didn't like anything grown artificially.”

What I find that distinguishes Momtazi wines is the subtle layering of earthy details – brambly berries, dried herbs and flowers, forest floor, various botanicals and a whiff of compost. Among the many excellent vineyard designates I've tasted recently are standouts from Nicolas-Jay (2019 Pinot Noir), St. Innocent (2017 Pinot Noir), Brianne Day (2017, 2018 and 2019 Pinot Noirs) and Project M (2017, 2018 and 2019 Pinot Noirs).

In his comments Moe Momtazi consistently emphasizes the impact of the Van Duzer Corridor winds. "I think that one of the most special parts of owning vineyard property here in the McMinnville AVA is the microclimate that we have the privilege of farming in" he writes. "The winds of the Van Duzer Corridor help prevent disease issues, the fluctuation between day/night time temperatures during the summer helps keep acidity in the wines vibrant and we often are protected from some of the fall rains that make their way through the valley during harvest season, allowing us longer hang time on the vines. All of these natural components come together in the McMinnville AVA and help give our vineyard the perfect natural backbone to make age-worthy Pinot Noir, year after year." 

Maysara releases are often held back for extra years of bottle age. Among the current offerings I particularly liked the 2015 Asha ($58) and Jamsheed Pinots ($32). This week's value selection is the Maysara 2019 Three Degrees Pinot Noir ($22). It's gamy, earthy and robust, with spicy berry fruit holding down the center. It's finished with a screwcap so give the glass a good long swirl (or decant the bottle). With ample air this is a fine, affordable expression of this classic biodynamic vineyard.

Hyland Estates

For its sensational old vine expressions the 185-acre Hyland vineyard is another McMinnville standout. First planted in 1971, it is now owned by Laurent and Danielle Montalieu and managed by Bruno Corneaux of Domaine Divio. Along with the original plantings of Riesling and Coury clone Pinot Noir the Hyland vineyard grows Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Müller Thurgau and other Pinot Noir clones including Wädenswil, Pommard and Dijon 115.

The Old Vine Single Vineyard Rieslings from Hyland Estates winery are particular favorites and exceptional values. In my review of the 2019 bottling I noted that "there's no telling how much longer these old vines, planted in the early 1970s, will last. This is a landmark wine for Oregon, one of a vanishing breed."

Hyland's Old Vine single clone releases of Pinot Noir (some under the Soléna label) are always intriguing and in years such as 2019 when a full slate is available they make for a great comparison tasting. Among current Hyland releases the standouts are:

Hyland 2021 Old Vine Single Vineyard Riesling; Hyland 2021 Old Vine Single Vineyard Gewürztraminer and Hyland 2020 Single Vineyard Chardonnay.

Brittan Vineyards

Finishing up this triumvirate is Brittan Vineyards. It's fair to say that these terroir-driven wines are among the most brilliant, distinctive and expressive from anywhere in the Willamette Valley. Robert Brittan was already well-established in Napa as the longtime winemaker at Stags' Leap when he and Ellen Brittan decided to pull up stakes and start a new adventure. As he explained in an email to me "we were looking for a site that had the potential to produce Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that were unique and compelling. I specifically wanted to be able to make multiple Pinot Noirs off the property as the result of the site itself and not through any winemaking techniques. In tasting wines that had been made in the AVA I discovered that these were low pH wines with highly concentrated phenolics, showing great potential for aging and site-specific expression."

In 2004 the Brittans purchased their 128 acre estate in the foothills of the Coast Range. They made their first vintage in 2006 and now produce six different Pinots, a Chardonnay and a Syrah from the estate.

PG:  What particular characteristics of the terroir do you believe set it apart from the rest of the Willamette Valley? 

RB:  "The unique combination of the base geology, the complexity of the soils, the impact of the Van Duzer Corridor and the fact that we are in the foothills of the Coastal Range and so near to the Pacific Ocean are the primary characteristics of the McMinnville AVA.

My points of definition for the AVA:

·   Exposure to base geology

·   Wide range and combinations of soil types

·   Coastal proximity with resulting cooling evening temperatures

·   Influence of the Van Duzer Corridor

·   Variability in aspect and elevation

PG:  How do these factors impact the wines?

RB:  "The McMinnville AVA has a unique expression of Pinot Noir. The Chardonnays from McMinnville have the potential to be spectacular. In addition, the Syrah grown here exhibits a unique and compelling expression of that variety.

"The result of these influences are wines that have the potential to express tension, which expands the wines - giving them length through the palate and a long, complex finish. These influences also contribute savory flavors and the impression of salinity/minerality, resulting in a more complex expression of aroma and flavor in the Pinot Noirs. Wines from McMinnville have an intensity of color and flavor which encourage extended cellaring."

PG:  My years of reviewing Brittan wines confirm and applaud all of the above. Though at first they may seem a bit austere, their savory minerality, brambly fruit and dense tannins reinforce Robert's assertion that they encourage extended cellaring. My notes on the current releases are here (along with an in-depth interview).

Youngberg Hill/Bailey Family, J Wrigley, Coeur de Terre and Yamhill Valley are other McMinnville AVA wineries worth your consideration.

Youngberg Hill's Wayne Bailey came to the area, he says, because he knew he wanted to make cool climate varietals – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. "After reviewing countless weather history and reviews, and considering climate change, I wanted to hedge my bet by being as high in altitude and as close to the ocean as possible. That led me to the McMinnville AVA where we are typically a couple of degrees cooler on average and lag seasonality by a couple of weeks."

Here are additional highlights from recent tastings of McMinnville AVA wines: 

J Wrigley

J Wrigley 2020 Estate Riesling

This checks in with enough residual sugar to cut the acids a bit and register just slightly off-dry on the Riesling scale. For most palates it would feel dry enough to work well with poultry and white fish entrées. The lemony flavors are complemented with the minerality typical of this AVA. Riesling is a standout at this winery, and here's a good example of why that is so.

165 cases; 12.4%; $29 (McMinnville)

J Wrigley 2020 Acceptance Block Estate Chardonnay

This is a lip-smacking style, loaded with tangy lemon/lime and grapefruit flavors. Fermented in a mix of stainless and oak, it's juicy and refreshing, with excellent concentration through the finish.

140 cases; 13%; $39 (McMinnville)

J Wrigley 2019 828 Single Clone Pinot Noir

"Born of legend and arriving in America via suitcase" is how the winery introduces this wine. Dijon clone 828 seems to have a different story from every winery that has bottled it, but they all agree it is something special. It's impressive that a wine with such a modest abv can push out such deep perfume and dark color. It's loaded with marionberry, black cherry and pomegranate fruits, and the palate is framed with phenolic highlights of sage and thyme. All that notwithstanding, the overall impression is elegance.

85 cases; 12.7%; $74 (McMinnville)

Raptor Ridge

Raptor Ridge 2019 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard Pinot Noir

The wine is all Pommard clone, and it's a forward, fruity, friendly bottle with a pleasing mix of red and black berries, pomegranate and a hint of spiced pear. Nuanced details from own-rooted old vines add depth and texture to the mid-palate. Beyond all that is an underlying earthiness, giving the tannins a soft landing pad with a vein of licorice. Three quarters of the barrels were new.

105 cases; 13.5%; $50 (McMinnville)

Youngberg Hill/Bailey Family

Bailey Family 2018 Chardonnay

This barrel-fermented reserve (all neutral oak) is loaded with concentrated flavors of cut pear, citrus flesh and rind. There's plenty of power and length, and the tart fruit is buoyed up with natural acidity. It's stylish and refreshing, with impressive length and balance.

175 cases; 13.4%; $85 (McMinnville)

Bailey Family 2018 Pinot Noir

This is a palate-gripping bottle of Pinot Noir, sourced from the estate vineyard. Succulent blueberry fruit with lemony acidity keeps this fresh and youthful, with its best years ahead. The optimal drinking window might be in the 2030s.

195 cases; 13.8%; $115 (McMinnville)

Youngberg Hill Vineyards 2018 Natasha Block Pinot Noir

Lip-smacking acidity adds vigor to this savory wine. Rhubarb, lemon and tart blueberry fruit flavors highlight the core palate. Wrapped throughout are mixed herbs and earth. Decanting is highly recommended. This should develop further over the next decade.

600 cases; 14%; $60 (McMinnville)

Yamhill Valley

Yamhill Valley 2018 Estate Pinot Noir

This is a classy, balanced and fruit-laden wine, benefitting from a bit of bottle age, yet with freshness assured via the screwcap seal. Along with the brambly berries and Bing cherries there are sharp highlights of peppery herb and a thin trail of butterscotch. This is a rarin' to go Pinot that should be tasted now.

6000 cases; 14.2%; $28 (McMinnville)

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NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only recommended wines are shown, no negative reviews. My notes are posted immediately with links to the winery website, so you may purchase them directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed.

Coming next week:  Hearty autumn reds!

Heads Up: Features coming later this fall include surveys of Syrah/GSM blends; several single winery profiles; my pick of festive holiday bubblies and a re-cap of my favorite wines from the past year. Please send current and upcoming releases for these features as soon as possible; however there is no final deadline as I can and do post regular updates to past features. All new releases from Pacific Northwest wineries are welcome and will be tasted. California wineries please inquire before sending wines. As always only recommended wines will be reviewed here. 

Please contact me at paulgwine@me.com with your feedback and suggestions for future posts. Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt