Will You Be My Valentine Wine?
Among the staples of a weekly newspaper wine column, such as I wrote for more than a decade, were the mandatory holiday columns. They all followed a similar theme–what wine should I have with (insert holiday fare here)?
The obligatory Valentine's Day column always particularly rankled me, because the holiday is chained to the dubious notion that the pairing of chocolate truffles and big red wines is both good and desirable. It is neither. They generally cancel each other out, rarely reach an amendable stand-off, and almost never actually work as a compatible partnership.
One year I grew so aggravated at the challenge to come up with yet another take on the subject that I did a little research on the history of Valentine's Day and wrote the piece below. I am running it here and now because once my newspaper editor saw it the column was radically censored and never published. So here it is—the real history of Valentine's Day:
"Valentine’s Day, which is looming over us like some heart-shaped von Hindenburg blimp, honors the memory of Saint Valentine, who was martyred in Rome on February 14, 269 or 270 A.D. (sources disagree). By the Middle Ages, he had morphed into the patron saint of lovers in distress, and some centuries later the date of his death became the occasion to exchange love notes, flowers and candy.
(I have always thought it a bit ironic that, far from offering any help to husbands in distress, his holiday has become the source of duress for much of the male half of our species.)
It seems that the real reason that February 14th was chosen for this demanding holiday was that an older pagan festival—the Feast of Lupercalia—had been customarily held on February 15th. This was a fertility-related event that involved young men dressed as goats, roaming the busy streets of Rome and whacking innocent bystanders with strips of goat skin. (There’s more, but even at my most optimistic I knew that going any further would not make the editor's cut so you'll have to do your own research from here on out).
Now don’t get me wrong; I’m all for loving your partner and showing genuine affection. In fact, I think we should all be doing it 365 days a year. But this particular day brings many challenges. It’s bad enough that football has just ended and spring training has not yet begun; that winter is in full throttle and the Christmas bills are still piling up. Now here comes another holiday, laden with emotional baggage and numerous opportunities to screw it up.
Let’s face it, a shmoopy card and a dozen roses doesn’t cut it anymore. These days, there needs to be some food and wine involved, and for extra credit, a creative 'in-the-know' twist. The usual remedy (the old red wine and chocolate ploy) is a great sales opportunity for wineries and chocolate shops but makes about as much sense as pork gravy on ice cream."
OK–end of rant. I'm proposing something sure-fire for the big V-day dinner. Sparkling wine! But here's where you can go a step further. Skip the Champagne and the Prosecco and dive into something cutting edge, rare and local—Pétillant Naturel (Pét-Nat) wines. These fun, fresh and fizzy wines can be made from almost any grape and are ready to be drunk young. Good bottles come and go quickly and often are sold exclusively out of tasting rooms, so it's worth checking with your local favorites to see what is currently available. Among Northwest producers who make varied and interesting Pét-Nats are Cho, Grosgrain, Lacewing, Perennial Vintners, Savage Grace, Syncline and Troon.
Granted, these may be tough to find and maybe more experimental than is optimal on such an important day. In that case go big and choose from among the growing number of Champagne-method and Champagne-quality wines from Oregon.
It makes perfect sense that a state known for exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay would be a natural for producing méthode champenoise wines from those same classic grapes. It's only surprising that it has taken so long to catch on. Argyle has been a leader in this, and Rollin Soles at Roco has followed suit. Domaine Serene has built an entirely new sparkling wine facility on site, with plans to offer up to seven different cuvées. Willamette Valley Vineyards has launched its Bernau Estate sparkling wines, with a dedicated winery in the planning stages.
But a virtual explosion in offerings from dozens upon dozens of Oregon wineries may be credited to Andrew Davis, the owner of the Radiant Sparkling Wine Company.
Radiant was founded in 2014 with the goal to provide both the expertise and the specialized equipment required for the efficient production of sparkling wines. “I'd seen the potential through my years at Argyle,” Davis explains, “so why were there not more people doing it?” He concluded it was in large part a lack of the physical equipment specific to sparkling wine production. “It takes up a large footprint, it's expensive and very technical. I know a lot of people were daunted."
Radiant's “cradle to grave service” includes a well-equipped mobile truck for on-site bottling. His growing client list reads like a who’s who of Oregon wine: Adelsheim, Brooks, Elk Cover, Lange, Ponzi, Rex Hill, Sokol Blosser, Trisaetum and many more.
I've tasted at least a couple hundred of these wines and the quality is through the roof. But they are not inexpensive. And even the very best ones don't come up to the level of the very best Champagnes, although they get really close and cost well below top Champagne prices. Most wineries limit production to a few hundred cases. Listed below (along with the three wines at the front of the page) are my favorites.
Recently Tasted and Recommended
Adelsheim 2015 Sparkling Blanc de Blancs
130 cases; 12.5% abv; $95
This is 100% Chardonnay, tight and tart and deep, with plenty of aging potential.
Adelsheim 2016 Sparkling Brut Rosé
195 cases; 12.5% abv; $75
This tart and concentrated sparkler brings tangy apple fruit and a light dusting of cinnamon. With breathing time the grip and depth and overall concentration suggest that this should age well.
Argyle 2018 Blanc de Noirs
3983 cases; 12.5% abv; $30
Along with Pinot Noir the cuvée includes 20% Pinot Meunier, both sourced from the Spirit Hill vineyard. This has a fine bead, sharp acids, a light hint of spice and plenty of crisp green apple flesh and skin. The balance is spot on, and it's a fine value in a pricey category.
Argyle 2011 Extended Tirage Brut
1530 cases; 12.5% abv; $85
These grapes (60% Pinot Noir/40% Chardonnay) are from a cool vintage and got extra hang time. The wine is delicate and lightly honeyed, with hints of blonde raisins, toasted hazelnuts and lemon meringue. It may show best at room temperature rather than chilled in an ice bucket.
Bernau Estate 2017 Blanc de Blancs
258 cases; 12.4% abv; $75
My favorite among a trio of inaugural releases for this new project from Willamette Valley Vineyards, this shows good concentration, potent acids and underlying minerality.
Cho 2017 Laurel Vineyard Brut Rosé
40 cases; 12.5% abv;; $65
This is a delicious wine with a mix of raspberry, cream and vanilla. The depth and persistence suggest that this wine will continue to evolve; but it's already delicious, complex and powerful.
Domaine Serene M.V.2 Evenstad Reserve Brut Rosé
154 cases; 12.2% abv; $95
You’ll find the M.V.2 designation on the neck label front and center. This is open and generous, with light scents of lavender and fruit flavors touching on berry and cherry and citrus.
Domaine Serene M.V.2 Fleur de Vie Demi-Sec
58 cases; 12.2% abv; $75
Labeled Demi-Sec but dry enough for a first course/appetizer wine, this is loaded with lush fruit flavors of orange, pineapple and papaya, backed with generous acids.
King Estate 2017 Brut Cuvée
400 cases; 12.6% abv; $40
Crisp and fresh and loaded with green apple fruit underscored with minerally acids, this is a lovely, immaculate version of high caliber Oregon sparkling wine.
Lytle-Barnett 2015 Brut
315 cases; 12.5% abv; $75
Bright gold and loaded with scents and flavors of orange blossoms, tropical fruits, chanterelle mushrooms and toasted nuts. The flavors are balanced beautifully and sharpened with firm acidity.
Lytle-Barnett 2016 Blanc de Blancs
100 cases; 12% abv; $75
Elegant wine in every respect, it begins with complex, lightly flinty aromas that lead into a captivating mix of apples, grapefruit, chanterelle mushrooms and brioche. It trails out gracefully with a touch of sea salt.
Pashey 2018 Cuvée Extra Brut
250 cases; 12.8% abv; $65
Pashey is the sparkling label from Trisaetum. The Extra Brut is mineral-soaked, immaculate and refreshing, perfect with oysters, smoked salmon or fois gras.
Pashey 2018 Coast Range Estate Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
315 cases; 12.6% abv; $65
This single vineyard, vintage-designated all-Chardonnay méthode champenoise wine shows the elegance of a true blanc de blancs style of Champagne. Crisp, sculpted flavors of green apple, apple skin, jicama, white melon, lemon pith and rind bring layers of subtle detail.
Pashey 2018 Ribbon Ridge Estate Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
295 cases; 12.7% abv; $65
This subtle, elegant wine has exceptional depth and concentration already. The acids, crisp apple fruit, touches of spice and overall balance make this a candidate for long term cellaring.
Soter 2017 Mineral Springs Brut Rosé
810 cases; 12.8% abv; $65
A coppery cherry hue, this is scented with cherry blossoms, and cherry fruit flavors pop up throughout. The bead is fine and persistent, and the tastes linger generously through the finish.
Stoller NV Estate Brut
750 cases; 12% abv; $40
Fermented and initially aged in neutral French oak, it’s got a fine mouse and a medium straw hue, with crisp apple, celery and citrus flavors and just the lightest hint of toast.
Winderlea 2018 Vintage Sparkling Brut
232 cases; 12.5% abv; $65
This exceptional wine offers bright and polished lemon, pear, apple and melon fruit highlighted with touches of toast. The length is impressive, and it's clean and fresh all the way through.
